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Fashion, Life & Style

How To Build An Ethical Wardrobe From Scratch #3

ethical fashion blog

ethical fashion blog

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In another of my how to build an ethical wardrobe from scratch series, I want to again look at how to develop more mindful approaches to consumerism.

Last time I spoke about removing yourself from mailing lists, which is something I have found really helpful to resist fast fashion temptation.

Today let’s talk maths.

Fast fashion is cheap.  It’s undeniably difficult to avoid it’s lure when there is often a huge difference in price between an item of clothing on the high street and it’s ethical counterpart, and your budget is tight.  My budget is tight so I get this.  Everyone wants to get the most for their money and feel like they’ve got a bargain.   I’m no different.

So, is there a way to reconcile shopping ethically with shopping on a budget?  I like to think so.

But before we get to that, let’s put all ethics aside for now.  Let’s imagine I take a completely hypothetical shopping trip to the high street, one sunny autumnal Saturday, just after pay day.  I have budgeted and decided I can spend up to £50 on clothes this month.  I meet my friends for a coffee and a catch up, and then we head to our favourite fast fashion shop.  I buy a pair of skinny jeans for £15 because I figure you can never have too many of this wardrobe staple, especially at that price.

At the shop next door I pick up a red ‘going out’ top for £10, even though I don’t really need it.  The thing is it’s pretty and on sale, and my friends encourage me to buy it because we’re going out for drinks that night and I can wear it then.  Impulsively I pick up a pair of red shoes for £15 because they go with the top, even though they don’t go with anything else I own.  Giving me a total spend of £40.  I go out that night in my £40 outfit and feel great.

Sadly, my retail high doesn’t last that long.  The cheap top looses it’s shape in the wash after a couple of wears and I discard it.  Cost per wear?  £5.  I wore the shoes once but since I discarded the top that matches, the shoes languish at the back of the wardrobe forever more.  Cost per wear?  £15.  The cheaply made skinny jeans develop a tear in the crotch after a couple of months wear, that I’m unable to repair.  Let’s say the cost per wear was £1.

From a total hypothetical spend of £40 the cost per wear of these purchases was a huge £21.

If I had decluttered my wardrobe, and examined the gaps, I would have known that I didn’t need the skinny jeans, a ‘going out’ top or the red shoes, but what I did need was in fact a classic black go-with-everything top.  I could have shopped ethically and bought a well made quality black top* for £48 that I would then wear repeatedly, giving me a much much lower cost per wear.  If I wear the top 40 times, the cost per wear of my £48 top would be a bargainous £1.20.

Suddenly those cheap fast fashion purchases don’t seem to add up, or seem quite so good value anymore.  That more expensive but better made, ethically produced top suddenly becomes better value in the long run.

The idea of saving up to shop for better made ethically produced pieces becomes more appealing and makes more economic sense.  So, if you ever need an economic argument for shopping ethically then there you have it – cost per wear coupled with only shopping for what you really really need.

If you need another economic argument for shopping ethically then this cost analysis of a $10 (non fair trade) top is also useful.

Join me next time to talk all things sales shopping, and how to keep your cool whilst prices fall.

Fashion, Life & Style

Ethical Alternatives To Sports Direct

ethical alternatives to sports direct

Sports Direct has been exposed, but what is the ethical alternative?

Sports Direct has been hitting the headlines recently for all the wrong reasons, including a damning government investigation likening the range of shocking practices at their Derbyshire warehouse to that of a ‘Victorian workhouse’.

But it’s not an isolated case. Georgina Rawes from Ethical Consumer has this interesting guest post for Moral Fibres readers on their latest findings when investigating outdoor and sports retailers.  

Healthy living and appreciation of the great outdoors.  Do outdoor and sports retailers practice what they preach?

It’s the ultimate irony that whilst outdoor gear companies depend on a pristine environment for their profitability the vast majority show a total disregard for the environmental impact of their businesses.

Workers paid below the minimum wage, staff penalised for taking toilet breaks and repeated ambulance calls from workers, just some of the findings of a Guardian investigation at Sports Direct, which prompted a government enquiry.  It paints a disturbing picture for a company basing their business on the pursuit of healthy living and exercise, but they are not the only outdoor and sports retailer with questionable ethics.

At Ethical Consumer, we help consumers make smart and well-informed decisions based on sound ethical buying behaviour.  When we learnt of the Sports Direct scandal, we decided it was time to investigate this sector.  We assessed the other major outdoor and sports retailers in the UK and our findings don’t make for happy reading.  As far as poor ethics go, sadly Sports Direct is not alone…

ethical outdoor retailers

The shocking results show that all sports and outdoor retailers score badly, with particularly poor performance in supply chain management, toxic chemical use, animal rights and environmental reporting.  We always choose a few highly scoring companies to feature as a ‘best buy’ in each category that we evaluate, but for obvious reasons we are unable to do so for these retailers.

Supply chain shame

A clear supply chain policy sets out how workers in factories, farms and warehouses must be treated and sets corporate responsibility for ensuring that workers are treated fairly.  Without a policy, retailers are unable to provide guidance on pay, hours and health and safety.  In short, they are unable to hold the supply chain to account.  No policy, no control.

All of the retailers scored the lowest possible score in this area, with none able to offer a supply chain management policy that set out to protect the interests of their workers.

In fact, here in the UK, we discovered that Go Outdoors advertises zero-hour contracts, something that Sports Direct were harshly criticised for during their enquiry.  Only Decathlon states that it operates a no zero-hours contract policy.

Toxic fashion

The production of fabric often relies on the use of toxic, persistent substances such as PVC, dyes and adhesives that can cause harm to workers and the environment.  Most recently, Greenpeace has launched a campaign ‘Detox Outdoors’ to hold outdoor clothing manufacturers to account and to eliminate the use of hazardous chemicals in clothing production, including the use of Perfluorinated Chemicals (PFCs).  PFCs are persistent hormone and reproductive disruptors which can accumulate in the food chain and they are widely used to make outdoor gear waterproof.  Although there are alternative substances on the market that do the same job, PFC use is widespread.

In our assessment, all of the retailers were penalised for the use of toxic chemicals, all receiving the worst score.  They either had no policy at all or did not have a clear time driven plan to remove these chemicals from their products.

Animal rights issues

You might not immediately think that animal rights would be something that outdoor retailers would need to concern themselves with, but the use of animal products are widespread within the industry.  Think down jackets, merino wool sweaters and socks, and of course leather use in bags and shoes.

Despite clear animal rights issues associated with live plucking of birds for down collection and the use of ‘mulesing’ (anaesthetised removal of skin in sheep to prevent flystrike) in the production of merino wool, most retailers did not have a policy on how they ensure responsible sourcing of these materials.  Include the pollution risk of not controlling the production of leather in tanneries, and there are clear ethical concerns here.  All retailers, but Intersport, received the lowest possible marks in this category.

Lack of environmental control

In an era when climate change is making the headlines on a daily basis, you would think that retailers would have environmental impact firmly on their agenda.  You would expect large retailers to have a clear policy setting out how they plan to reduce their impact.

Not so.  With the exception of Decathlon, none of the other retailers were able to provide us with a policy and had no evidence of setting targets to become more sustainable.

A depressing outlook, but there are other options…

The picture looks pretty bleak for the outdoor retailers.  However, there are ethical outdoor brands out there, if you’re willing to search off the high street.  We’ve run reports on sportswear brands and can recommend several ‘best buy’ brands:

  • Gossypium offer a range of natural and organic yoga and dance clothes made in Great Britain and they ranked at the top of our sportswear report.
  • Yew are a sports and outdoor clothing company that makes ethically sourced clothes from environmentally friendly and sustainable materials.
  • Páramo ranked in our top 4.  They stock a large range of outdoor clothing and have a clear plan for the removal of PFC from their clothing range.

Until these high street retailers can demonstrate that they care let’s vote with our feet and shop elsewhere.  There are plenty of alternatives available.  You just have to know where to look.

At Ethical Consumer, we’ve produced reports on over 40,000 companies, brands and products, using calculations to assess and rank companies in all aspects of ethical behaviour.  See ethicalconsumer.org for these ethical reports.

Featured image by Philip Halling; table reproduced by permission from Ethical Consumer.