How To Wash Wool By Hand & In A Washing Machine
To support the running costs of Moral Fibres, this post may contain affiliate links. This means Moral Fibres may earn a small commission, at no extra cost to readers, on items purchased through these links.
Here’s how to wash your wool clothing by hand and in the machine. Plus I’ve got my top tried and tested tips on how to dry wool, and how to store and care for your woollen clothes, to help them last a lifetime.
Wool is great at keeping you warm. Come this time of year, I’m rarely out of a woolly jumper or cardigan, or without a woolly hat or scarf. There’s nothing quite like a soft woollen to keep you warm when the temperature drops.
What I love most about wool is that if you look after it, it can last a lifetime. Plus, it’s It’s naturally hard-wearing, renewable, and biodegradable.
However, it can be tricky to wash if you don’t know what you’re doing. Once you understand the basics, it’s really easy, though. So, to help keep you right, I’ve put together this handy guide on how to look after your woollen clothing, and wash wool either by hand or in your washing machine.
These will help to keep your garments looking fresh and as good as new, no matter how old they are. More importantly, they’ll help you get as much wear as possible out of the clothes you already own, which is always a win when it comes to living more sustainably.
Let’s talk laundry!
Do Your Wool Clothes Actually Need Washing?
Before you start reaching for the laundry detergent, it’s worth stopping to ask whether your clothes actually need washing at all.
Wool is naturally breathable and odour-resistant, allowing it to release moisture and smells rather than holding on to them. This means you can usually get away with washing it far less often than other fabrics.
Washing less saves water and energy. It also helps your garments last longer, which is exactly what you want with something as lovely as wool.
If your woollen clothes have been lightly worn, and they aren’t stained or sweaty, then they probably don’t need washing. Instead, hang them outside for a few hours on a dry day. Fresh air works wonders and will revive your clothes without any effort at all.
Take a look at my post on how to refresh clothes without washing them for more top tips on how to avoid unnecessary laundry.
How To Hand Wash Wool Clothing
If your clothes are dirty or sweaty, then hand washing is my preferred option for washing wool. The laundry care label may even specify that your wool item is suitable for handwashing only, like the jumper I’m wearing in the photo above.
Handwashing can sound like a bit of a faff, but it really isn’t. This method gives you more control, which is important with wool. And for the most part, you’re just letting the water and soap do the work. Once you’ve done it a couple of times, I find it quickly becomes second nature.
Here’s how to do it.
The Prep
Fill your sink with lukewarm water (30ºC or less) and add some gentle laundry detergent specially made for washing wool and other delicates. Make sure it’s properly mixed in before adding your clothes.
I’d recommend avoiding using a conventional laundry detergent, as these tend to be quite alkaline. Alkalinity isn’t kind to wool fibres or the dyes used on them, and over time, it can lead to fading, weakening, and breakage.
Instead, opt for something wool-safe. I’ve recently started using Lab Co products on my woollens. The detergents are gentle, and they leave my wool clothing in top condition without stripping the fibres. They also smell amazing!
The Handwashing Process
The first step in the handwashing process is to separate your colours. If I’m washing a few garments, I’ll always wash the light colours first. I’ll then wash the dark colours second, to avoid the risk of any dye transfer.
Once you’ve sorted your colours, pop your clothes into the soapy water, submerging them to ensure the whole garment is wet. Then allow the clothes to soak for at least 10 minutes.
This allows the water and soap to penetrate the fibres, ensuring a nice, thorough clean. I like to use these 10 minutes or so to have a nice cup of tea. Got to make the chores bearable!
After soaking, give your garment a gentle swirl and give any areas that need a litte extra attention a gentle rub with your hands. Avoid rubbing the fabric together, like you might do when you hand-wash other fabrics, as this can cause felting.
Once you’re done, remove your garment from the soapy water, and rinse it twice with clean water to ensure all the soapy suds are out.
Getting rid of excess water is where you need to take the most care. The last thing you want to do is wring your garment out, as this will stretch it out of shape. Instead, gently press out as much water as you can, then lay the garment flat on a clean, dry towel. Roll the towel up, Swiss roll-style, to squeeze out the remaining moisture.
Once you’ve done that, unroll the towel, reshape the garment if needed, and leave it to dry flat, away from direct heat. Job done, and definitely time for a second cup of tea! Maybe a wee biscuit too, as a reward for a job well done!
How To Machine Wash Wool Clothing
I tend to use my washing machine for washing wool if I’ve got quite a few woollens that need laundering in one go.
It can be a bit scary to use the washing machine for your best woollens. And rightly so. Wool can shrink in the washing machine because heat, agitation, and sudden temperature changes cause the tiny scales on wool fibres to open up and lock together. Once those fibres tangle and tighten, the fabric felts and shrinks, and there’s no easy way to reverse it.
However, modern washing machines can be perfectly safe for wool as long as you use the right settings and follow the laundry rules.
The first rule is to wash darks and lights separately to avoid dye transfer, just like with handwashing.
The second rule is to add the wool laundry detergent to the dispensing drawer rather than to the drum. This allows the detergent to dilute properly before it reaches your clothes, giving a more even and gentle wash. Pouring detergent directly into the drum can expose wool fibres to a concentrated hit of detergent, which can stress the fibres and affect colour and texture over time.
Once you’re good to go, run the wool programme, if your machine has one. Most modern washing machines have a wool programme. But if yours doesn’t, I’d recommend running a 30ºC or less cycle, with the lowest spin cycle your machine has. This helps avoid the heat and agitation that cause wool fibres to felt.
Once the cycle is finished, remove your clothes from the machine. Reshape your garments whilst damp and then dry them flat, away from direct heat. Again, a cup of tea is a good idea here!
What If My Knitwear Smells After Washing It?
I’ve found that certain types of knitwear – particularly 100% merino wool – can smell really badly immediately after washing them. Think a horrible ammonia smell, much like perm solution, or like wet dog (or wet sheep!) and you’re on the right track.
The smell can be really concerning. I bought a lovely 100% merino wool jumper, and when I washed it for the first time, I thought something had gone terribly wrong. It smelled horrendous – nothing like the clean smell from all of my other knitwear I had previously successfully washed! However, once I dried it, the smell was completely gone.
It happens every time I wash that particular merino jumper – even if it doesn’t smell bad before washing it. I’m not sure why it happens. I think that wool blend might be more porous than others. Either that, or if it’s something to do with the lanolin content. I can’t quite put my finger on it.
All I know is that my kids hate it when I wash that jumper. I have to warn them in advance, and they then stay well away from the kitchen. It then has to be transferred outdoors immediately to dry – I’m not allowed to dry it indoors! I promise though, the smell completely goes when dry, so it’s only a temporary thing.
I’ve washed my jumper about three times now, and the smell remains, but I’m hoping it will eventually go away after repeated washing. I’ll update here with how I get on!
How To Dry Woollen Clothing
No matter how you wash your woollens, drying them properly is crucial.
For both methods, I’ve emphasised the need to dry your woollens flat. This is because hanging wet woollens vertically, either on a washing line, clothes horse, or radiator, can stretch the wool fibres. This can make your clothes lose their shape and fit.
A drying rack or a clothes horse with a horizontal arm, is ideal – preferably outdoors, but a ventilated room is fine if it’s wet outside or if you don’t have outdoor space.
I’ve also emphasised the need to dry your knitwear away from direct heat, such as radiators or the tumble dryer. This is because heat can damage the fibres and cause shrinkage, which, after all the care you’ve taken to properly wash your knitwear, isn’t what you want to happen.
How To Remove Stains From Wool
If your best woolly jumper or cardigan has a stain on it, then don’t worry!
I’ve found that eucalyptus oil makes for a good natural stain remover. I use a couple of drops of eucalyptus essential oil and leave for 10 minutes before washing, and then wash as normal. As always, do test the oil out on an inconspicuous area before using it for the first time on any fabric or garment.
Alternatively, try applying Marseille Soap to remove oily or fatty stains from wool with ease. It’s gentle yet effective, and safe to use on wool.
How To Store Woollen Clothing
I fold my woollens and keep them in my drawer, rather than hanging them up in the wardrobe (Martha Stewart agrees with me!). This helps them retain their shape but also protects them from any errant hangers that might snag the wool.
When it comes to storing your woollens away for the summer, it’s always best to wash your woollens before packing them away. This is because moths and other wool-loving insects are especially attracted to dirt and body oils, so clean clothes are far less appealing to them.
I like to store my woollens in an airtight vacuum bag, with a sachet of moth deterring herbs added for good measure. As well as repelling the wool munching critters, this method has the added advantage that your clothes take up very little storage space (a boon for small space dwellers like myself).
Other Top Clothing Care Tips
How you wash, dry and store your wool clothing is just one part of the jigsaw. The way you wear and maintain it day to day also makes a big difference:
- I tend to give jewellery a miss when wearing wool, especially when I’m wearing a looser knit, to avoid the risk of snagging the fibres.
- I use a fabric shaver to remove any bobbles. This Steamery shaver (available at Dunelm) is my absolute favourite.
- I find it’s best to address any minor repairs promptly to prevent small issues from escalating into larger problems.
And there you go, with this advice on how to wash wool, and how to look after your woollen clothes, hopefully, you can prolong the length of your woollens.
Found this post useful? Please consider buying me a virtual coffee to help support the site’s running costs.
Sign Up For The Moral Fibres Substack
Get all the latest articles from Moral Fibres straight to your inbox, once a month, free of charge through Substack. You can also upgrade to be a paid Substack subscriber, where you’ll receive an additional two exclusive articles a month. Sign up now:


Hi Wendy,
Thank you for both of your posts on washing wool and making your own fabric conditioner. I have a woollen blanket that I would like to wash and wondered if you would recommend using the wool setting on the washing machine? I am a bit nervous about doing that in case it felts it up or shrinks it but maybe the newer machines are more gentle now? Alternatively, how would I use the vinegar fabric softener if washing by hand? Would I use a wool detergent first, rinse, then soak in vinegar solution?
I am so glad I came across your site and love the name!
Looking forward to hearing your thoughts,
Erika
Hi Erika, so glad you found my site! I have been able to use the wool setting on my washing machine (it’s six years old) without any problems. Just make sure you use wool detergent. However if you are worried about damaging your item you can hand wash it. I personally don’t use the vinegar when I hand wash wool or use the wool cycle on my washing machine. I have heard that softener use can make wool items bobbly – as it softens the fibres, it can cause them to move out onto the surface more easily causing bobbling.
I find my machine wool wash doesn’t get food out of the woollens very well, annoyingly. It’s like the food is lodged within the fibers so it’s stuck. How do you rub soiled areas without harming the jumper? Where do you rinse each piece if you are carrying on using the sink for washing? I have quite a small sink in my flat, and no outside space. Thanks!
Hey Amy, I just leave the clothes to soak for 10 mins or so and then rub any stained areas with my hands and finger tips to help loosen any dirt. Although I’ve photographed my kitchen sink, I tend to handwash in my bathroom. That way I can wash clothes in the sink and then rinse them in the bath/shower!
Great tips, Wendy. (I love your sink – sorry, hope that is not weird!)
Great blog, I will pass it on.
Hi,
I’ve been enjoying your blog for a while now, thank you! It’s been great to find new ideas for eco friendly clothing.
I am a bit puzzled about the Eco credentials of the ‘alpaca’ jumper you’re promoting though. I clicked on the link, and the largest constituent is acrylic (which I presume means it won’t be compostable?); more worrying to me though is the viscose content which is on my avoid list due to the heavy chemical processing involved and the environmental harm. Viscose is an older highly polluting method of producing fabric from wood pulp, whereas the more modern lyocell method is less harmful to the environment with the majority of the chemicals able to be recycled I understand. It is hard work funding clothes that are genuinely ethical and sustainable isn’t it?!!
I mostly wash my woollens in the machine on a wool wash, but put each item in a gauze bag to protect it.
The jumper isn’t perfect (very very very few commercially produced clothes and materials are), but it’s better than a lot of other commercially available options out there. I don’t know if you read my recent post investigating the ethics of outdoor clothing retailers – https://moralfibres.co.uk/ethical-alternatives-sports-direct/ ?
The jumper is made ethically, trendless, and is made to last. Finisterre also offer a repair service – which I think all clothing manufacturers should if they are serious about the quality and durabilty of their clothing. I didn’t make any eco claims about it: I was looking more at the ethics of it. Always on the look out for clothes that are ethical and sustainable though. It’s a toughie alright.
Thanks so much for these tips – and for stressing that wool might not need washing at all. I saw another guide that recommended washing wool with every 5 wears, and I though OH NO.. I hope that is not what most people do – well at least I think mine can go for months, if I’m just good enough with airing.
(wool underwear is a different story)
I trust my machine over my hands however. It knows perfectly how warm 30 degrees is, and is never to rough. But I have quite a new machine, and read somewhere that new machines are more gentle than hands.
I will use your tip for stain removal however – have a stain I’m been looking at.
Cheers from Copenhagen
Every five wears?! Gosh, unless it’s dirty then never!!