How to Build An Ethical Wardrobe From Scratch

New to the world of sustainable fashion? It can be overwhelming knowing where to start, so here are my top tried and tested tips on building an ethical wardrobe from scratch.

It can be both difficult and overwhelming to know where to start in making your own wardrobe more ethical. From where to shop to the potential cost involved, it can feel like a difficult part of your life to alter. Especially if fast fashion has been a huge part of your life.

Ethical fashion is all about clothes made with care – for the people who make them, for the planet, and for their longevity. So fair wages and safe working conditions are key, as are materials that don’t harm the earth and durable garments that will last for years rather than months.

So, if you’re ready to start creating a wardrobe that reflects your values and still feels like you, here’s a manageable approach based on what’s worked for me over the years:

How To Create An Ethical Wardrobe

Let’s start from the beginning. The foundations of your ethical wardrobe, if you will:

Declutter & Take Stock

The first and most important step in building an ethical wardrobe is to look carefully at your existing wardrobe, so I’ll spend the most time on this section. As I’ve said countless times before, and probably will forevermore: the most ethical clothes are the clothes you already own.

Taking stock of your existing wardrobe and removing anything you don’t wear or don’t like is an important first step.

Shopping ethically isn’t always the cheapest (although if you opt to shop preloved, it can be). So learning from previous mistakes is imperative. Doing so will help you get the most for your money and help you avoid rash impulse purchases.

Does the world need more decluttering advice? Probably not. I’ll aim to keep it brief for anyone interested in how I manage my own ethical wardrobe.

The Four Piles System

I’m a firm advocate of setting aside an afternoon to empty everything out of your drawers and wardrobe onto your bed. I like the four piles system myself. This involves putting your clothes into, funnily enough, one of four piles:

• The clothes you no longer wear, are worn out, no longer fit, no longer suit, or you don’t like.
• The clothes that need repairing or modifying (and you will actually repair/modify rather than leave them there for 2 years at the back of your cupboard!)
• The clothes that you love and wear on a regular basis.
• The clothes that you love but wear on a less regular basis – e.g., formal wear, party wear, etc.

You also have my blessing to add a fifth maybe pile to revisit another day.

Some people argue against that additional pile, saying it adds more work at a later date. But I say, if you’re worried about rash decision-making, and that pile makes you less nervous, then by all means give it a go.

If you’re swithering over whether to keep an item or not, then I ask myself, “If I were out shopping right now, would I buy this item?“. If I wouldn’t then the item would go in pile one.

Whilst decluttering, I try to bear in mind seasonality. For example, I would give my summer items of clothing a reprieve until the end of summer. Anything I hadn’t worn that summer would then be out. Decluttering summer clothes in the middle of winter might otherwise see some useful clothes inadvertently discarded, and vice versa.

Understanding What Wasn’t Working

Before you discard pile one, have a good look at what you’re discarding and why.

Was it the fit, or was it the style that didn’t suit? Perhaps the colour? Was it something you bought on a whim or because it was on sale? Perhaps it didn’t go with anything else in your wardrobe? Was it something you bought because you were feeling low that particular day and needed a retail boost?

When I went through this process, I realised that almost every “mistake” in my wardrobe was an impulse buy. They were things that I hadn’t planned to buy but bought anyway because they looked good. But, I just hadn’t considered if they would go with anything else I owned, or was honest if they would fit into my lifestyle. I learned that impulse buys are not my friend!

Whatever the reasons, keep them in the front of your mind next time you’re clothes shopping. The aim here is not to repeat these mistaken purchasing decisions again. This will help save you money and save resources, too, as well as create a more ethical wardrobe.

Defining Your Style

Place the third and fourth pile (and hopefully the second mended pile!) back in your wardrobe. Next, take a good look at what’s left. What colours dominate? What shapes make you feel confident? Which outfits do you reach for on repeat?

Defining your style this way means you’ll know exactly what to look for when you do need to buy something. Plus, you’ll be far less likely to make purchases that don’t quite work out.

Assessing The Gaps

Now your clothes are back in the wardrobe, carefully analyse the gaps. What items of clothing do you need to bridge those gaps?

Make a written list of the items you legitimately need. Be really specific. So rather than just writing down ‘trousers’, write down the specific style and colour of trousers you need (e.g., black wide leg trousers for work), and what you plan to wear them with (ideally, a good few items of clothing).

I’m not necessarily a proponent of capsule wardrobes or minimalist wardrobes, so I’m not going to offer a specific list of clothing you need. Your own list will be specific to you, your lifestyle, and your existing wardrobe, so think carefully and honestly about what you need.

Bear in mind, there’s no need to replace everything you’ve discarded with ethical options like for like. You only need to purchase the things you really need to make your existing wardrobe work better for you. Owning fewer clothes is really rather liberating and does make it much easier to get dressed in the morning.

Another pertinent point is that decluttering your wardrobe is not a code word for going on a massive shopping spree. Building an ethical wardrobe takes time, and it should come together slowly and organically. There is no rush.

Embrace The Joy Of Preloved Clothing

Now that you have a clear vision of both your style and the gaps in your wardrobe, the next step is to consider where to shop the next time you do need to add a piece to your wardrobe.

One of the most sustainable and affordable ways to build an ethical wardrobe is by shopping secondhand – in charity shops, resale sites, and vintage shops. This helps to reduce the demand for fast fashion, whilst giving preloved items a new lease of life, helping keep them out of landfills.

A few quick wins for finding preloved gems: look for natural fibres (they last longer and usually age better), check seams and zips, and don’t be afraid to try things on even if the label size looks “off.” Some of my most-loved clothes came from the men’s section, or from sizes I wouldn’t normally wear!

Pass On Your Old Clothes Sustainably

Before you pass on pile one, though, think about where it’s going. Donate what’s in good shape, sell a few quality pieces online, and recycle the worn-out ones at textile banks or charity shops that accept damaged clothing. It’s a good way to make sure nothing goes to waste.

Research Ethical Brands

As well as discovering the joy of secondhand, it can also be fun to find ethical fashion brands that align with your values, so that you know where to head when you do need something new. To help you out on your journey, I’ve got specific guides to women’s sustainable clothing and men’s sustainable clothing.

Prioritise Quality Over Quantity

In the world of fast fashion, cheap and disposable clothing has become the norm. However, building an ethical wardrobe requires a shift in mindset towards quality over quantity.

My own approach is to buy new clothes very infrequently (I think this year I’ve bought five brand new items), yet save a set amount of each money each month to put towards clothing. When I do, I try to invest in well-made pieces that are designed to last. It’s a way of shopping that is both financially and environmentally sustainable for me.

Lean Into The World Of Sustainable Fabrics

When selecting clothing, pay attention to the materials used in their production. What you choose depends on your values: however, some of the choices you can make include natural fibres such as organic cotton, linen, hemp, and TENCEL™ lyocell. These tend to have a lower environmental impact compared to synthetic fabrics like polyester and nylon.

Learn How To Care For Your Clothing

Finally, proper clothing care is essential for prolonging the lifespan of your garments and minimising your environmental impact.

Following laundry care labels, washing your clothes in cold water, and air drying them where possible saves energy and also helps to preserve the integrity of the fabrics. This means your clothes can last longer, making them more sustainable wear-per-wear and saving you money.

Learning how to repair your clothes is also a key step in extending the life of your clothes – so is a super handy skill to learn.

Go Further

Found this post useful? Check out more of my posts about reframing your relationship with fast fashion:

• Why the Cost Per Wear Concept Is Important When Ethical Shopping
• How to Reconcile Black Friday with Ethical Consumerism
• How To Stop Impulsive Buying Fast Fashion
• A Simple Tip to Stop Buying Stuff You Don’t Need