How To Dry Clean Your Clothes At Home Sustainably

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Are you looking to wash your dry clean only clothes at home? Read on for my top tips on how to wash many different types of dry clean only fabrics at home, using a variety of methods, and for advice on what NOT to attempt to wash at home.

If you’re looking to be more sustainable, traditional dry cleaning raises some serious red flags. From the chemicals used to the single-use plastic, it’s not exactly a planet-friendly process.

I try really hard not to buy dry clean only clothes, to avoid having to deal with them, and it’s a strategy I suggest you adopt too. However, sometimes unsuspecting dry clean-only clothing can work its way into your wardrobe – either unavoidably or in my case, when I’ve bought preloved clothes online and haven’t been able to inspect the care label.

If you’re in a similar situation, then don’t worry. Dry cleaning at home can be an option. Here’s why home dry cleaning is worth considering and how to get started, as well as the fabrics to avoid trying to clean at home.

The Problem With Traditional Dry Cleaning

Traditional dry-cleaners rely on a chemical called perchloroethylene – sometimes known as perc – to clean your clothes. Whilst is great at removing stains, it’s not great from an environmental and health perspective.

It’s what’s known as a volatile organic compound (VOC), which means it evaporates easily into the air, contributing to air pollution. Worse still, it’s classified as a “likely human carcinogen” – meaning prolonged exposure could cause cancer – and has been linked to respiratory issues and skin irritation in workers.

Whilst wearing clothes cleaned with perc isn’t associated with any risks, there are still risks from exposure to perc through the air and soil. Whilst the use of perc is banned in places like Denmark and France, it’s still approved for use in the UK. It is quite tightly regulated though. All dry cleaners need a permit, there is a strict cap on how much perc can be used per kilogram of clothes cleaned, and detailed records need to be kept and submitted to the authorities.

While some eco-friendly dry cleaners have popped up, offering alternative solvents or wet-cleaning techniques, these can be pricey and aren’t available everywhere.

Although perc is tightly regulated to minimise risk, dry cleaning has another environmental impact. Think of your local dry cleaners, where all the newly cleaned clothing is hung on plastic hangers and wrapped in plastic. The environmental impact of this single-use plastic is not to be ignored. If we can lessen this impact by bypassing the dry cleaners then I’m all for that.

How To Dry Clean At Home

A pink jumper on a pink background, with a blue text box that says how to wash dry clean only clothes at home.

I’ve never known the right way to dry clean at home. As such, some of my attempts at at-home dry cleaning have been successful and others have not. Laundry roulette if you will.

Some items I’ve been able to hand wash time and time again, and they still look fresh as a daisy. Other times, the odd item of dry-clean-only clothing has come to a sad end at the hands of my washing machine. RIP my lovely but synthetic pleated skirt circa 2006.

Thankfully for me, and for you, I’ve recently come across this guide from the wonderful Yumi Sakugawa over on WonderHowTo.com on how to wash dry clean-only clothes at home. It has really been helping me to take the guesswork out of washing my delicates:

how to dry clean at home

Let me transcribe, in case you are visually impaired and using a text reader.

Before you attempt dry cleaning at home, check the clothing label first. Some materials and fabrics are best left to the professionals. These include suede, fur/feathers, velvet, taffeta, and anything with delicate stitching/beading. I’ve looked at these in more detail below, so do read the full article before filling your sink and donning your rubber gloves!

In The Machine Washing

Cotton, linens, and durable polyesters can withstand machine washing. Here’s how to do it:

  • Place items of clothing inside a mesh bag designed for washing delicates.
  • Set your machine to a gentle cold-water cycle, and add a mild laundry detergent.
  • Once the cycle is complete, remove the clothing and lay it flat, or hang it to dry.

Hand Washing

Many wool, silk, and cotton dry clean-only clothes can withstand handwashing at home. Here’s how to do it:

  • Fill your sink or bucket with cold water, and add a mild detergent. Mix a little to create a foam. For silk or wool products, use a specialist detergent, like these ones from The Lab Co. – available at Ethical Superstore.
  • Dip your clothing in and out of the soapy water until everything is soaked through. Use your fingertips to rub any soiled areas. 
  • Drain your sink or bucket, and refill it with clean cold water. Dip and re-dip your clothing until all the soap is gone. Refill your sink or bucket, and repeat as necessary, if required.
  • Lay your clothing on a clean white towel, and push (but don’t twist) the water out. Place another towel on top, and roll the towel up whilst squeezing gently. Repeat 3-5 times.
  • Reshape your garment, and lay flat on another clean dry towel until dry. For wool products, dry your garment away from sunlight/heat.

Cleaning With Leather Jackets Or Other Types of Leather Clothing

Before washing your dry clean only leather jacket, or other types of leather clothing, be sure to carefully read the care instructions on the label first.

For light surface care, use a damp towel to remove everyday dirt and grime. Be sure to not rub too hard. For more serious stains, try using a leather stain-removal spray. You can also hand wash a dry clean-only leather jacket in a sink filled with lukewarm water and a small amount of dishwashing liquid or liquid castille soap. Gently rub stained areas. 

When it is time to rinse the jacket, lift the jacket out of the soapy solution. Similar to the process for handwashing clothes, empty the sink and refill it with clean water. Rinse your jacket in the clean water (don’t wring your jacket.)  Again, you may need to change the water a few times, to make sure all the soap has been rinsed out. Then allow your jacket to air dry, away from sunlight/heat. 

I would hang it on a sturdy hanger, perhaps in your shower or bathtub, to catch drips. 

The Items That Really Need To Be Dry Cleaned

While some “dry clean only” labels are more of a precaution than a hard and fast rule, there are certain fabrics that are delicate by nature. These don’t tend to respond well to water or agitation, and attempting to wash them at home could lead to disaster. And while dry cleaning isn’t great for the environment, neither is ruining a much loved item of clothing after just one wash.

To save you from any laundry mishaps, here’s a quick look at some of the fabrics and types of clothing that should always be dry-cleaned:

Structured Silk Clothing

Silk clothing can be hand-washed. However, it’s important to know that washing silk can change the texture and colour of your garment, even if you use a specialist silk detergent. The silk can feel a little rougher and the colour may appear a little darker. It’s up to you whether you want to risk washing silk or opt for dry cleaning.

The one caveat is that you should never hand wash structured silk garments like suits, blouses with pleats, or anything with embellishments. These should always be dry-cleaned, as handwashing can mean they lose their shape.

Lined Wool Or Cashmere Items

While some wool garments can be carefully hand-washed, others – especially suits, blazers, or anything with a lining – should be dry cleaned. This is because whilst jumpers or other knitwear can be gently pulled back into place if they become misshapen during the laundry process, it’s much trickier doing so with lined items.

Suede Clothing

Suede is a tricky material, that’s extremely sensitive to moisture. As such it’s one that definitely requires specialised cleaning. Water can cause discolouration, warping, and stiffness. Stains also often need expert treatment to avoid permanent damage.

Rayon (Viscose) Clothing

Rayon – also known as viscose – is a semi-synthetic fabric that’s best being dry cleaned professionally. This is because its incredibly prone to shrinking or stretching when wet, leaving garments misshapen. It also weakens significantly when exposed to water, making it prone to tears.

Tailored or Lined Linen Clothing

Although some linens are machine washable, if the linen item is tailored or lined, such as a suit or blazer, then it’s best being professionally dry cleaned to maintain it’s structure. This is because washing at home can lead to wrinkling, loss of crispness, or shrinkage of your favourite clothing.

Structured or Tailored Clothing

Garments with significant structure to them – including suits, blazers, wedding dresses or evening gowns – should always be dry cleaned. These pieces often have interfacing, padding, or linings that can warp, shrink, or separate when exposed to water.

Velvet Clothing

Velvet’s plush pile can become crushed or damaged during the washing process. This can leave the fabric looking flat and rather sad. Water can also cause marks or streaks on velvet, so professional dry cleaning is the best way to keep this fabric looking opulent.

Acetate Clothing

Acetate, often used in formalwear and linings, is highly sensitive to water and heat. Washing acetate – even by hand – can lead to shrinkage, or discolouration.

In Any Doubt About Washing Dry Clean Only Clothes At Home?

Of course, if you are in any doubt about washing dry clean-only clothes at home, or if an item of clothing is particularly special to you, then do use a dry cleaner. I don’t want to be responsible for ruining your wedding dress or bespoke suit!

I also have a ton of other laundry tips that you might find useful:

Here’s to greening your laundry!

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5 Comments

  1. What about clothes that are lined? I’ve been washing “dry clean only” clothes for years, mostly without disasters, but things with linings are scary. When they get wet, the lining fabric almost always shrinks at a different rate than the outer fabric and goodbye garment. Do you have any tips for cleaning those at home?

  2. Woolite is actually, weirdly, not great for wool. For stuff like 100% wool sweaters, I recommend getting a no-rinse wool wash of the sort marketed to knitters for washing finished knit items. (Brands i’ve used are Eucalen and Soak, but I’m in the US. You can find Eucalen on Amazon, but knitting stores and websites are good sources. A tiny bottle lasts forever.) This stuff is easy to use because it contains lanolin and is meant to be left in the fiber–swish a wool item around a bit by hand with a capful of the wash, don’t bother trying to rinse it out, and it acts like a leave-in conditioner for the fiber.