Fashion, Life & Style

Fast Fashion and Modern Slavery in the UK

Today I have a post from Paul McShane of the Immigration Advice Service on the links between fast fashion and modern slavery in the UK.

Earlier in July, a Sunday Times story broke regarding a garment factory in Leicester that was paying workers as little as £3.50 an hour. As the story unfolded, it explained how this garment factory made clothes for popular online fashion label Boohoo while underpaying its workers substantially.

The article was a result of an undercover reporter working at the factory and witnessing first hand not just the lack of social distancing measures but the exploitation at hand, noting a blatant disregard for paying workers the minimum wage and upholding a safe working environment.

The story rightly caused consternation – Standard Life Aberdeen sold most of its shares in the company as a result and highlighted that Boohoo’s response to the revelations was wholly inadequate.

But this is not an isolated tale by any means. For many years, fashion labels have had concerning links to workers who are forced to work for low pay, providing the clothing that we wear almost every day. In fact, recently the Guardian reported on how the fast-fashion industry is complicit in the forced labour of Uighur people in China who are working to produce cotton used for labels as diverse as Adidas, Gap and Calvin Klein.

Fast fashion, which describes the quick turnover of designs from catwalk to cheaper high street alternatives, has meant that the general public can access replicas of luxury apparel at prices they can afford. Yet the consequence of such low prices and a consistent cycle of new collections sees an estimated £30 billion worth of clothes unworn and hanging in many wardrobes across the UK. The industry reached £32bn in 2017; an increase of 5.4% on 2016.

One of the most exploitive techniques employed within some fast-fashion supply chains – typically by the raw material provider of cotton or garments that then make the items of clothing – is to take on board both undocumented migrants and international students who often accept the low pay and precarious working conditions simply to have some form of income.

To know that 100,000 children in London alone do not have secure immigration status is deeply concerning – half of those were born here in the UK and yet will not be treated as British citizens when it comes to employment. This is of paramount concern as undocumented individuals are forced into such exploitative work due to being deemed ‘illegal’.

The Unseen Workforce

During Covid-19, the plight of exploited workers within the fast-fashion industry has become increasingly apparent with the Boohoo scandal clearly highlighting that many of its supply-chain workers based in a Leicester factory were paid just £3.50 an hour for grueling work.

The garment factory has additionally continued to operate throughout the pandemic, against government guidelines. Fast-fashion retailers can no longer fail to take accountability for those working to provide the very items they reap profit from. Similarly, consumers must recognise the role they play in this – no longer can the British public claim ignorance nor pretend that this is an issue occurring outside of our control: it is happening here, in the UK.

These illicit factories are not vying for the furlough scheme because it is of no benefit to them. Instead, they rely on workers who are in desperate circumstances to work for less than the national living wage.

What Can We Do?

It is essential that brands lead from the front. This means questioning their garment suppliers and investigating the conditions that their workers toil under. Already, Boohoo has seen their value drop by £500M, particularly as Standard Life Aberdeen questioned their approach to championing workers’ rights. But this change also requires pressure from consumers; often the only thing those with a mind on profit will listen to.

One of the reasons these premises can thrive are due to workers operating in a climate of fear. As the UK has become more hostile to migrants – with its ‘hostile environment’ policy specifically targeting those who lack the required documentation – concerns of deportation drive these vulnerable individuals to accept such low wages and dire working conditions. This includes those who have been trafficked into the UK – such a deeply embedded fear of deportation and local authorities increases the likelihood of accepting anything their employer dictates, no matter the wage or working conditions.

It is only through exposing these unacceptable conditions that brands are forced to address this, yet undocumented migrants recognise that they will be offered no protection from the UK government and will instead likely face punishment – this makes it inevitable that exploited workers remain silent, allowing such practices to thrive.

The government may have made noise regarding how abhorrent such working practices are and yet they fail to address the very immigration policies which feed this vicious cycle. To make real, substantive change, the hostile environment policy must be scrapped and fast-fashion retailers must be held to account.

Arts & Crafts, Life & Style

How to Dye Fabrics Using Natural Materials

How to Dye Fabrics Using Natural Materials

Today I have a great tutorial on how to dye fabrics using natural ingredients from Juliet Bawden, a designer, maker, author, and journalist, who blogs at the website Creative Colour.

Juliet will show you how to dye your fabric, and then, as a bonus, she will show you how to use the finished result to make reusable gift wrap.


With summer on the cusp of autumn, berries are plentiful at the moment, so it is a great time to use those that aren’t perfect enough to eat, or surplus to your requirements, to make a natural dye. Today I will show you just how to dye fabrics using natural materials – it’s easier than you may think.

The best fabrics to dye using fruit and vegetables are natural ones such as cotton, silk, and linen. This is a great way to reuse old cotton sheets or pillowcases that have seen better days.

Before naturally dyeing your fabric, you will need to wash it to get rid of any finishes in it, and any dust or dirt. You will also need a mordant to help the cloth take up the dye, otherwise, your natural dye may not work. Mordant sounds like a specialist ingredient, but don’t worry, you probably already have some mordant in your kitchen cupboard – table salt is a commonly used mordant.

How To Dye Fabrics Using Natural Materials

You Will Need

Fabric to dye
Scissors
25cm Muslin
Berries (I used mulberries but blackberries are just as good)
Salt (the proportions are ½ cup of salt to 8 cups of water)
Large wooden spoon
Gloves (Optional but Mulberries stain)

Instructions for dyeing

  • Wash your fabric and leave it damp.
  • Add the salt to a large pan of water and place the washed cloth in it.
  • Bring the pan to the boil and then leave it to stand for an hour.
  • Put your berries in the muslin and tie it up, so the berries can’t get out, and add it to the pan.
How to Dye Fabrics Using Natural Materials
  • Bring to the boil again and, simmer for an hour, pushing the muslin with a large spoon to help release the juices. Keep stirring to get an even colour distribution on the cloth.
  • Turn off the heat and leave the fabric in the dye bath. The longer you leave it the stronger the colour. I often leave mine overnight for more vibrant colours.
  • Remove the naturally dyed fabric from the dye bath. It will look much darker and often a different colour whilst it is wet.
How to Dye Fabrics Using Natural Materials
  • Hang it up to dry and you are done!

How To Wrap Gifts Using Fabric

how to wrap gifts using fabric

The Japanese term for wrapping gifts in fabric is Furoshiki. It’s a great sustainable alternative to wrapping paper, as the recipient can re-use the fabric or give it back to you for wrapping future gifts.

To wrap your gift in your naturally dyed fabric, once the fabric is dry, iron it. The follow the steps outlined below:

  1. Lay the fabric flat, with a corner pointing towards you, and place your box in the middle.
  2. Fold the corner closest to you over the box.
  3. Fold the corner opposite you over the box and fold the edge to make it neat.
  4. Tuck and gather the remaining material on each end and, with one end in each hand, bring them over the top of the box and tie.
  5. Make a neat bow on top of the box.

Thank you Juliet for this handy guide on how to dye fabrics using natural materials.

All images by Mimi Chambre for Juliet Bawden.